Wednesday, 7 March 2012

1940's - 1950's
Here is a image of four ladys showing the fashion of this era, the utility scheme, war time chic.
The 1940's I feel is where it all began. The war ended in 1945 and in britain the first majourity labour goverment was elected on a programme of a radicial reform. Planning with everything became vital and even extended to the clothes.
Life in britain had to go on at the same time, sharing a sense of struggle in society.
Once the blitz began, women had little time to be fashionable. An air raid would sound at any time, whilst you were shopping? in the bath?. There was no time to waste in dressing up, there was little to dress up in. Survival was the piority. Pearl Binder, the author Lou Taylor's mother comments that 'no one was sluttish, or depressed' but the energy expended on keeping all going at all costs, in the shelters, in the forces and in the factories. This left extremely little time for any leisure pursuits of any kind. Most women felt them not bother but many men still went on to have to feel they had to look smart relying on their dressmaker, (their wifes). The british were spending 20 percent less on food, 43 percent less on household goods and 38 percent less on clothes.
Many women with children worked. Mostly middle class women, undertook voluntary war work. The myth has grown up that this was a time of emancipation for women, when collective provision of meals and childcare in particular- diminished the domestic burden, while women gained social and economic independance as war workers or even more excitingly, in the armed forces. The goverment could never really decide whether it thought that mothers should have themselves in work throughout the war, however many women had a very strong input in all male role jobs the pay was never equal to theirs.
The military uniform strongly influenced the fashions of the war time, the simple strong style of the 1930's style coats & skirts create that very classic suit style of the era. The narrowish skirt, tailored fitted jacket had a much tighter waste than would be usual today. Hats also became very military style.
As in the first world war many women became familiar to dressing in trousers and dungerees at work. However Theodora Fitzgibbon, who had been a model in the late 30's believed that it was still far from the norm that women wear trousers.
Utility scheme also became apparant, this was basic designed clothing and restrictions. The scheme headlined that they cut out luxury and defeat the profiteer. - womens approach to this scheme as a feminist view point, that its a good way that women of entirely different classes will all look the same and suitable to all lifestyles and incomes.
There was also the make do and mend campaign- personified, 'mrs sew and sew' aimed at all social levels however just women! aiming at benefitting from the dissapearance of so many daily items. a flyer titled, 'the housewifes guide to making and mending- showing the ever persistant rule that a working mans wife is to be very domesticated.
Futhermore womens fashions and rights post war still had very much restriction. It was the house wife who really felt the shortages even though family allowances was now put in place and womens domestic labour was finally recognised as hard work, there was still the very traditional rule that a womens place was home.
Womens rights started to become a bit more apparant following on from this, there was a club formed labelled a little below the knee club. Protests appeared a little useless however, as there was a strong view on how the youthful figure had to look. Padded shoulders was also forcing there way into fashion trends. next page....

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